The ultimate challenge. From an 11.22-carat with minor clarity enhancement, to an exceptional 10.17-carat oil/resin-free natural Shakiso, Ethiopian emerald

Market demand is for no-oil emeralds 

Skyrocketing demand for extra-fine emeralds with no clarity enhancement motivates dealers like myself to search for stones suitable for cleaning, and recutting when necessary, in order to qualify for the elusive “No indications of clarity enhancement” lab report.

Fig. 1 – Reflective fissure revealed after cleaning of 11.22ct emerald. (Photo: Jeffery Bergman ©EighthDimensionGems.com of Bangkok)

Weighing in originally at 11.22 ct, this Shakiso, Ethiopian emerald with minor clarity enhancement proved a potential candidate as the major issue was a reflective fracture on the corner of the stone only revealed after a thorough cleaning. 

Fig. 2 – Closeup of reflective fissure revealed after cleaning and before re-cutting. (Photo: Jeffery Bergman ©EighthDimensionGems.com of Bangkok)

Fortunately, Colombian emerald cleaning and treating experts Consuelo Infante Galindo “Connie” and her husband gemologist Darwin D Fortaleché (formerly of CDTEC Bogotá, now GUILD Gemlab Bangkok) were able to accomplish the tricky task of thorough cleaning often requiring weeks of soaking in various solvents.

Bangkok is also blessed to be the new home of one of the world’s finest emerald cutters, Ma “Mafe” Fernanda Argotty, a second-generation lapidary artisan also from Bogotá, Colombia.

Fig. 3 – Colombian emerald cutter Ma “Mafe” Fernanda Argotty planning her work. (Photo: Jeffery Bergman ©EighthDimensionGems.com of Bangkok)

No surprise I chose Mafe to undertake this challenging and important project

After taking several days to carefully study the emerald, Mafe plotted out the stone and formulated a course of action with the hope of finishing over the pivotal price-critical 10.00-carat marker.

Fig. 4 – Mafe frequently inspecting her work with a loupe. (Photo: Jeffery Bergman ©EighthDimensionGems.com of Bangkok)

Due to the need to remove one corner of the stone in order to completely eliminate the reflective fissure, the entire emerald required recutting in order to maintain a pleasant and well-balanced final shape. Using specialized emerald cutting lapidary equipment imported from Israel, and with Mafe’s skill and experience, she was able to finish the stone at 10.17-carats, a loss of 1.05 ct or slightly less than 10%. We celebrated with some freshly brewed Japanese green tea!

Fig. 5 – Finished at 10.17-carat! (Photo: Master Emerald Cutter Ma “Mafe” Fernanda Argotty)

But then you need that the all thing is confirmed by leading gem labs

Next was the challenge of obtaining a respected lab report with no indication of clarity enhancement. No surprise, the first submission came back with an indication of insignificant residue in a surface-reaching fracture leftover from the cutting process. This was unacceptable, so back to Connie and Darwin for re-cleaning.

Fig. 6 – Insignificant incidental residue from cutting process in a surface-reaching fissure. (Photo: Darwin D Fortaleché)

After another week of patiently waiting, Darwin announced the emerald was “laboratory clean” and issued a GUILD Gemlab report stating such. Since one lab report is never sufficient for buyers of exceptional no oil emeralds, we were relieved to also receive no clarity enhancement reports from Bellerophon Gemlab signed by Martial Curti and emerald expert Dr. Dietmar Schwarz, as well as ICA Gem Lab signed by Kenneth Scarratt.

Fig. 7 – Emerald cleaning/treating experts Consuelo “Connie” Infante Galindo and her husband gemologist Darwin D Fortaleché from Bogota, Colombia. (Photo: Jeffery Bergman ©EighthDimensionGems.com of Bangkok)
Fig. 8 – Finished 10.17-carat exceptional Shakiso, Ethiopian emerald with no clarity enhancement! (Photo: Jeffery Bergman ©EighthDimensionGems.com of Bangkok)

Article by Jeffery Bergman

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IGR Team
IGR Teamhttps://www.rivistaitalianadigemmologia.com
Content created by the editorial team of IGR (Rivista Italiana di Gemmologia/Italian Gemological Review), a broad information framework for Gemologists as well as professionals involved daily in the gemstone business.

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