What is the current status of greenwashing in the realm of gemstones? How can we assess the touted ethical attributes, such as lab-grown diamonds being labeled as “carbon free”? It appears that claiming to be sustainable is not only an ethical merit but also a competitive advantage. This has led legislators, both in Europe and the United States, to pay close attention whenever so-called ethical claims are made without proper grounding or evidence.
In 2016, the European Union issued a guidance on Environmental Claims, while in the US the Federal Trade Commission (FTC) is updating its Green Guides from 2012. The aim is to provide clear guidelines on environmental marketing claims and prevent deceptive advertising.
The American Gem Trade Association (AGTA) is actively engaged in the debate prompted by the FTC. In a press release on May 2nd, 2023, the AGTA made some insightful points. The definition of “sustainable” aligns with that set forth by the United Nations’ Brundtland Commission in 1987: «Meeting the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs». Although the terrain of linguistic meanings is always tricky, it must be acknowledged that this definition is widely accepted by numerous academic studies. From this standpoint, the terms “never-mined” or “mining-free” should not be allowed, and “mined” — it can be observed — is not a derogatory term.
Following this definition, “mining” (and mined stones) shouldn’t be immediately condemned if areas are not being aggressively and irretrievably exploited. Furthermore, AGTA’s recommendations suggest that other terms such as “ethical”, “responsible”, and “conflict-free” should be precisely defined for the benefit of consumers and the integrity of the supply chain. The usage of terms like “never-mined” or “mining-free” for gemstones and precious metals should not be allowed. The term “recycled” should not be applied broadly to all gem materials, as well as gold, platinum, palladium, and silver. Instead, the term “recovered from electronic or e-waste” should be specifically used for reclaimed metals.
The term “carbon neutral” should only be used when substantiated and should be favored over “carbon free”, as the former more accurately reflects the carbon offsets employed by some companies. In essence, AGTA’s recommendations equate the deceptive effects of bad disclosure for both the chemical-physical properties of gemstones and their ethical attributes.
Gem News published on IGR – Italian Gemological Review #17, Autumn 2023
