This content was first published on IGR – Italian Gemological Review no. 18 in 2024. The information provided here is therefore current as of the original publication date.
Fair Disclosure, the practice of being transparent in communicating the characteristics of gemstones, is a cornerstone of social responsibility. It ensures that consumer rights are respected and prevents deception or unfair practices. Despite the international recognition of Italian jewelry craftsmanship, our market still struggles with opaque or misleading practices. Often, gems are sold without proper, accurate and comprehensive disclosure of their specific characteristics or any treatments they may have undergone.
Despite numerous legislative proposals over the past two decades, Italy still lacks specific laws to combat fraud in the trade. This regulatory vacuum fosters a loosely regulated environment that is often described as the “Wild West” of jewelry and gemstones. However, the adoption of clear regulations not only meets a genuine ethical imperative endorsed by major international organizations (such as the OECD, UN, and EU) and industry associations (such as CIBJO, ICA, AGTA, and RJC), but also represents an opportunity for growth throughout the jewelry supply chain.
In addition to their traditional roles in research and education, academia can play a key role in engaging with society and business to develop science-based solutions to such issues. Since 2011, mineralogists from various Italian (Bari, Catania, Ferrara, Florence, Milan, Naples, Rome) and foreign universities have been collaborating with industry professionals during conferences dedicated to scientific gemology.
During the recent “5th National Conference of Gemmology” held in Rome in June 2023, the organizers recognized the widespread need within the gem and jewelry industry to establish precise, easily applicable rules of responsibility. This led to the formation of a working group (consisting of Giovanni B. Andreozzi, Ferdinando Bosi, Rinaldo Cusi, Antonello Donini, Rocco Gay, Michele Macrì, Paolo Minieri, Gennaro Mincione, Loredana Prosperi, Eugenio Scandale and Arduino Zappaterra), coordinated by Eugenio Scandale with the task of drafting guidelines for the proper marketing of gemological materials.
These guidelines, based on prominent national and international regulatory frameworks, are intended as recommendations for dealers in the industry, promoting a moral commitment to fair and respectful behavior toward all stakeholders in the jewelry supply chain. The document is considered a work in progress, open to further input from the gem and jewelry community. The Italian Gemological Review has offered its space for the dissemination of the “Transparency Guidelines for the Commercialization of Gemological Materials” with the aim of stimulating discussion and fostering a culture of integrity within the industry.
Transparency Guidelines for the Commercialization of Gemological Materials
Introduction and objectives
The undersigned is committed to applying the procedures outlined in this document in order to implement them with professionalism and transparency and to protect the entire supply chain, particularly the consumer. These procedures are based on responsible principles, particularly in the accurate representation of gemmological materials.
Scope
This document is designed for voluntary adoption by participating parties whenever transactions and promotional/advertising communications involve gemmological materials. Participants also advocate for the application of this document throughout the entire supply chain, both upstream and downstream.
Regulatory sources
This document is inspired by the following regulatory sources:
UNI (Italian Standards Institute):
- Standard 10245 Rev.2019 (Gemmological Materials: Nomenclature);
- Standard 10173 Rev.2019 (Gemmological Materials – Typological Classification of Cut);
- Standard 9758 Rev.2021 (Diamond – Terminology, Classification, Characteristics and Test Methods);
- Standard 1608857/2021 (Synthetic diamond – Terminology, classification, characteristics and test methods).
CIBJO (International Confederation of Jewelry, Silverware, Diamonds, Pearls and Stones):
- “The Pearl Book”;
- “The Gemstone Book”;
- “The Diamond Book”;
- “The Coral Book”;
- “The Precious Metals Book”.
LMHC (Laboratory Manual Harmonization Committee): General Report Information: Fact Sheets #1 through #13.
ICA (International Colored Gemstone Association): Code of Ethics, Section 1, General Guidelines.
RJC (Responsible Jewelry Council): Code of Practices.
These regulatory sources may be revised and updated periodically. It is recommended that versions later than those listed on their respective websites are checked out.
Fields containing gemmological information
Fields containing essential information about the gemmological characteristics of the materials covered by this document include:
- Mineral species, variety, group (if the mineral species is not identifiable); (e.g., group: garnet; species: grossular; variety: tsavorite).
- Source: natural (geological process) or man-made (industrial or laboratory process).
- Treatment Indications: any indication of treatment and, when possible, the type of treatment and its stability over time.
- Mass: expressed in metric carats to two decimal places.
- Type and shape of cut.
- Dimensions: expressed in millimeters to two decimal places.
- Traceability: Indicate where sourced (where possible).
The information should be provided using the nomenclature specified in the previous section. Ambiguous and conflicting terms (e.g. “string of natural cultured pearls”) should not be used. Information should be provided if the gemological material requires special care or maintenance.
Information to be provided with each transaction
Transactions will be executed with the information necessary for commercial practice, concisely indicating: mineral species (if applicable, otherwise the group); variety; origin (natural or artificial); treatment indications; mass. Upon customer request, they may be accompanied by a separate statement specifying fields 1 to 7 in addition to commercial documents. In the case of transactions involving gems, gem lots, or high-value jewelry pieces, it is recommended, for the buyer’s protection and the undersigned’s lack of adequate instrumentation, that transactions occur with the issuance of an extensive gemmological analysis report issued by recognized laboratories. This report should contain the fields mentioned in the preceding paragraph, along with photos and additional annotations if necessary.
Correct terminology of the analysis document
The term “certificate” should not be used to refer to the analysis documents of the gemmological materials, as these are third-party verification documents or professional opinions produced by gemmological laboratories. The following wording should be used: “gemmological analysis documents issued by qualified laboratories or qualified professionals”.
Lots
In cases where transactions involve lots of homogeneous stones or, when mixed, multiple gemmological materials of the same species or different species, the overall value will be considered as unitary. The minimum and maximum sizes with the overall mass will be indicated. The number of pieces will be specified if possible.
Set gems
In cases where transactions involve stones mounted on jewelry pieces, the document will include data on the entire piece of jewelry, including the metal, and the mass of the stones will be estimated by calculation (or the actual mass will be reported if possible).
Updates
Participants are required to ensure that their technical-scientific training and that of all personnel involved in the marketing of gemmological materials is consistently kept up to date. Updates will be facilitated through training courses, seminars, and meetings organized jointly by all relevant categories at both the national and local levels, in collaboration with universities and major gemmological institutes.
Article by Michele Macrì, published on IGR – Italian Gemological Review #18 – Spring 2024.
