With the release of its issue no. 55 (Fall 2025), InColor presents contributions that trace the evolution of gemological research, revisit the history of the colored gemstone trade, and analyze transformations in the international market.
The issue opens with the article “Emerald Origin Determination Through Automated Pattern Recognition” by V. Fejoz, T. Rozet, M.P.H. Curti, W. Oei, A. Arsac, and F. Molle, in which the authors introduce an innovative methodology for determining the geographic origin of emeralds. Using UV-Vis-NIR spectroscopy and automated pattern recognition, emeralds are classified into two main categories: “low iron type” and “high iron type”. The study proposes a standardized nomenclature for describing internal cavities and inclusions, highlighting key diagnostic markers such as the presence of CO₂ in bubbles of Afghan samples and a distinctive tongue-shaped two-phase fluid-solid inclusion found in gems from Brazil, Colombia, and Madagascar.
The article “Tantalizing Tourmaline”, by L. Lognay, retraces the history and spread of tourmaline. The author emphasizes the pivotal role of Tiffany & Co.’s George Kunz in elevating the gem in the late 19th century, as well as the impact of cutting expertise brought to Brazil in the 1930s by German immigrants.
In “September’s Sapphire: Legacy, Luxury, and a Dynamic Market Proposition”, by H. Henning, the historical and commercial journey of sapphire is examined. The article explores the gem’s cultural heritage, from its significance in Persian civilizations to its modern-day status as an icon, epitomized by Lady Diana’s engagement ring. The text highlights the importance of sapphire’s color diversity, its durability for everyday wear, and the market’s current demands, which focus on provenance transparency and accurate disclosure of treatments.
The section dedicated to market trends features “A Market in Flux: Trends and Factors Driving the Gemstone Industry” by B. Branstrator, which underscores the resilience of the colored stone market in the post-pandemic period. Key factors include supply scarcity, collaboration between producers and designers, and a growing interest in gemstones considered “non-traditional” or notable for their unusual inclusions.
The issue no. 55 of InColor is available on the official website.
